You had asked this in a Whiteboard message, and my low computer skills prevented me from answering on the Whiteboard. Sorry.
I had written in another post that I play bass, chord, chordomonica II, slide chromatic, slideless chromatic and diatonic harps, but not the Hohner Harmonetta.
Jon asked on the Whiteboard:
Why not the Harmonetta? Isn't that the one with buttons?
John B.:
Yes, the Hohner Harmonetta is an antique chromatic-chord harmonica that uses lettered button keys played with the fingers, not a slider mechanism. It looks similar to a computer keyboard, and is approximately the size of a human hand.
With a Harmonetta, a player can play melodically (one note at a time), or chords, or both melody and chords.
I don't play the Hohner Harmonetta, because it's a rare, discontinued instrument, and is hard to find; because it's expensive; and because time limits my practicing of the other harps. I wouldn't have much practice time left after doing the others.
Yes, I play slide chromatic, slideless chromatic, bass harp, chord harp, 10-hole diatonic, 12- and 14 hole diatonics, 4-, 5- and 8-hole diatonics, and I'm considering buying a 6-hole Seydel harp or two.
I play some of those harps better than others. I'm a harmonica hobbyist, not a pro player, but I've played a few musicals and with a few symphonies with the harmonica, and did some transcribing and recording for the Hal Leonard music publisher.
I've designed the note placements of 2 Seydel Chromatic Deluxe slide harps, and Seydel made them for me.
I also teach harmonicas, and write articles for a few harmonica periodicals, and Slidemeister.
Your book, "Harmonica Americana", is a favorite among my students. The book is written clearly, and is easy to follow. It's a real treasure.
Keep writing and publishing, Jon. We all appreciate your efforts.
Old harmonica players never die, they just forget where they are.
About once a year or so, the Gindick Forum gets deleted by accident on my computer (my fault), and I don't remember the Gindick website address. Now, I have it saved under "Favorites."
If both blow and draw reeds lock up, the problem may be windsavers, or something else, but the first thing to try would be warming the harmonica.
If that doesn't solve the problem, it could be reed mis-alignment.
If a reed is mis-aligned, it is resting on the reed plate off-center from the reed slot. The reed must be centered above the reed slot, or it won't vibrate through the slot, and won't sound.
To fix the mis-alignment, center the reed in the reed slot. This can be done using a reed wrench, turning the reed pad (the square part of the reed, below the reed rivet or reed screw), left or right above the slot, until the reed is centered.
If you don't have a reed wrench, a substitute would be any thin object that would fit in between the reed and the reed slot, such as a drinking straw (insert the reed into the drinking straw, then move it, lightly), or single-edged safety razor blade, or the theft protection strips that we find on store purchases. Move the reed on it's edges in this case.
The theft protection strips are cased in an off-white plastic sheath, about 1/4" X 1" in size. Remove the plastic sheath, and inside you'll find 2-3 metal strips. Use one strip between the reed and the reed slot, and move the reed to center of the reed slot.
The anti-theft strips are magnetically charged, but that will not interfere in any way with their use. These strips may also be used to de-bur reeds and reed slots.
Reeds and reed slots often get burrs (jagged, saw-like teeth on their edges), that can also stop the reed's path through the slot. Run the metal strip over the reed's sides, and reed slot's sides, to clear the burrs. De-burring won't change the tuning of the reeds.
Here are a few recommended websites for learning more about the slide chromatic harmonica:
www.slidemeister.com It's a forum that discusses both diatonic and slide chromatics, and all other harmonicas, music theory, acoustics, harp anatomy, etc.
www.overblow.com It's a forum discussing mostly diatonics, but also includes altered tunings, etc.
www.angelfire.com/music/harpon An extensive and complete encyclopedia of study , everything about the chromatic, but other harps and harmonica ideas are also defined. Not a discussion forum.
www.patmissin.com Like angelfire, but also discusses antiques, patents, etc.
thanks John - from your comments. i suspect that my issue is more with technique than anything else. as reeds seem to lock up on both blow and draw notes i don't think it is a windsaver issue. i am not consciously trying to bend notes and i'm trying to be conscious of dropping my jaw to open up tone. playing softly for a while may be the solution. i'm used to getting a loud fat sound from my diatonics and expecting similar results from the chrom - but not realizing they are different instruments. if anyone knows of a good side by side discussion of dia versus chrom techniques that would be helpful.
This is one person's opinion. Others here at the Gindick Forum may disagree.
If your Hering slide chromatic's reeds are locking up when you play, it might be a result of your playing technique. The only way I could get my Wuxi-Suzuki slide chromatic reeds to lock was when I attempted to bend the reeds.
Reed bending is very possible on the chromatic, but it's not needed, since all the natural and sharp notes are available without bending. Bending is more of an effect on the chromatic, as compared to the bending done on a diatonic harp.
One solution is to play only regular, un-bent notes. Another solution is to play softly, until you've got more control of the flexibility of the reeds.
Another diagnosis may be the windsavers.
Whenever anything isn't working on the slide chromatic, it's usually the result of inexperienced technique, un-maintained windsavers, or a defective slide mechanism. Those 3 probably cause 80% of the harps performance problems.
When we put a harmonica to our mouth, the heat from our breath (98.6 degrees Fahrenheit) is greater than the heat from the room (generally 68-72 degrees). The result is that water condensation from our breath forms on the windsavers, adding weight and slowing down the action of the windsavers, or stopping them.
If we leave the windsavers unfixed after this, the water gets trapped between layers of a 2-layer windsaver, and it won't work the next time we play the harp.
Fortunately, most windsaver problems are with the blow reeds (our hot breath going into the harmonica), and not the draw reeds (air coming from outside the harmonica into the harmonica). The blow windsavers are placed outside the reed plates, and the draw windsavers are placed inside the reed plates, in the reed channels.
That makes repairing the windsavers easier. Remove the harmonica covers and insert a strip of newspaper between the 2 layers of the windsaver, and pull it towards the open end, slowly and carefully.
This will remove the moisture, and the windsaver should work better. Also do the process between the reed plate and the windsaver. This is only a temporary fix. Other fixes include waxing the reed plate, to prevent moisture build-up. That is a fix recommended only for experienced repair technicians.
The best solution is to prevent condensation on the windsavers before it occurs. Warm the harp before playing it, up to body temperature,holding it in your hands, under your arms, etc. When the harp is at body temp., it won't form water on the windsavers.
Another solution is to drink ice water, to reduce your mouth temperature, but this only works for a short time. You need to keep the harp warm. Try a heating pad wrapped around the harp. Several pros do this. They keep one chromatic in the pad, while playing another chromatic. If any thing isn't working on the performance harp, they switch harps.
Another expensive solution is to buy a slide chromatic with no windsavers. Seydel, Tombo and Hohner ("Hohnica") sell valveless (no windsaver) slide harps. The water problem won't happen on valveles harps. Your diatonic harps are probably valveless.
Another solution is to change your harp embouchure.
Use a pucker mouth, instead of tongue blocking or U-block. In blocking techniques, the tongue rests on the mouthpiece. When it does, the tongue sends a "food" signal to the brain, and we salivate on the harp. The pucker system has the tongue back in the mouth, and it doesn't touch the mouthpiece, so no saliva will be produced.
Finally, the third problem area of most slide chromatics is the slide assembly. Most air leaks are in the mouthpiece assembly area. That has nothing to do with the reed locking, however.
I hope this wasn't too long.
Best wishes
John Broecker
-- Edited by John Broecker on Thursday 10th of December 2009 05:44:09 PM
-- Edited by John Broecker on Thursday 10th of December 2009 05:46:44 PM
-- Edited by John Broecker on Thursday 10th of December 2009 05:51:48 PM
been playing diatonic for years and years. picked up a Hering 48 chromatic and have questions about playing. problem i am having is that i keep locking up te reeds on the chromatic. is this caused by the windsavers? I often play my diatonics pretty hard - how must i adjust for the chromatic?
